Stunning Christmas Carol Costumes Made Here at Graceland
By Doug Jones
When Graceland University’s Fine Arts department announced that Dickens’
A Christmas Carol would be part of the Performing Arts Series, we expected few surprises. We expected to be entertained by the curmudgeonly Scrooge’s signature line, we expected Scrooge to be visited by three ghosts and see the error of his ways and we expected Tiny Tim to walk again. Overall, we expected an uplifting, feel-good holiday story, and, no surprise, this is what we got.
But there were also some big surprises. We were surprised by the crowds: no one expected the nearly 2500 people who jammed into the Shaw Center, making Christmas Carol the best attended stage production in Graceland history. We were surprised by the amount of community involvement: Lamoni residents joined the cast (playing young children and (ahem) mature adults), assisted with sewing, and provided valuable resources to costume designer, Professor Rebecca M. Foster. And most definitely we were surprised by the stunning costumes. “The audience was surprised at how colorful the costumes were – they had always pictured the period as dark,” says Foster. “Also, a lot of people were surprised at the quality of the costumes.”
More than simply stunning, we were surprised to learn that the costumes were also period-authentic. But most of all, we were surprised at how massive this undertaking was and, therefore, at how impressive the accomplishment was. “Carol required 60 complete accurate Victorian costumes plus 30 rehearsal costumes, and for a small university like Graceland to take on a project like this is unique.” explained Foster. “Each basic female costume included shoes, stockings, petticoat, under sleeves, bonnet, cape or shawl and jewelry in addition to the gown itself. Including canes, vests, gloves, coats and hats, we brought together 400-450 items of clothing.”
“When you say ‘Hey, let’s do this show’ you have to make hundreds of decisions before proceeding,” says Foster. When the idea of producing “A Christmas Carol” was raised, the obvious question was “Can we do this?“ Even though Foster knew that Graceland had no Victorian costumes in inventory, she also “knew what we were capable of doing,” so she dove right in. The task was daunting. “I started out with 6 costumes from my personal inventory,” says Foster, “and had to build the rest.” But Foster also enjoyed a few advantages.
“The Victorian era is my period. I know pretty much what there is to know,” she explained, “so I didn’t need to spend time on researching.” She also knew what outside resources and expertise were available. These considerations “made a huge difference in deciding to take on the project.”
Creating these costumes was a close collaboration with the Director, Professor CD Adamson, and Scene Designer and Technical Director, Professor Robert Hamel. Together they discussed issues like overall design, color and texture, and how the actors would move over the set and look in relation to the background. They discussed Adamson’s overall visual objective: since Christmas is a joyful, jolly, family-fun time and all the characters have the Christmas spirit, their colorful costumes reflect that spirit. Except, of course, for Scrooge.
Foster first developed color charts for each character, mapping changes in each scene “so that when various actors appear together on stage, the whole picture works. Colors are not passive. Colors participate in conveying the message of the story,” says Foster. “Even if a character is on stage for 30 seconds, the costume makes an impression on the audience.” For example, Scrooge’s costumes reflected his change in attitude: initially all blacks, grays and darker blues and, as Foster points out, “in the end he wore a wine-colored cravat with a brighter blue vest. The audience may not consciously catch the difference but subliminally Scrooge has warmed up.”
Critical to completing the project during a short Fall semester was the trust between director and designer. “Professor Adamson and I have worked together for 1_ years and after he reviewed the color schemes and fabrics, he gave me the green light to move ahead.”
And move ahead she did. She scouted fabric store sales, literally buying fabric for pennies on the dollar. Professor Foster cut out every garment herself but a group – including students and community volunteers – did the sewing.
Every garment was custom made. “Victorian clothes fit differently and were built differently” than today’s clothing,” she explains, and to “make the garment fit, every actor was measured and fitted…sometimes multiple of fittings.” Furthermore, she allowed no corner-cutting: “At the university level, it’s important to instill in the students that we do things as close to professional as possible. What we did is historically accurate.”
And it was all done on a budget. “We could buy a Victorian gown on the internet for $400,” Foster explains. “Instead, we spent $30 on fabric and used student labor - and we created an entire costume, not just a gown. Even when she couldn’t make an item – a period-correct felt hat, for example – she knew where to buy it. “My experience volunteering for Lamoni’s Civil War Days exposed me to a variety of local resources for period clothing that I would otherwise not have known about. I learned where to get period bonnets and hats, for example. More than you would expect in a small town, people said ‘tell me what you need and I’ll tell you who has it or where to get it.’ There was a great outpouring of help and generosity from the non-Graceland community in Lamoni.”
Particularly challenging were the ghost costumes (there are actually four, not three): Marley and the Ghosts of Christmas Past, Present, and Yet-to-Come. Marley appears wrapped in chains, entering and exiting through a smoky fireplace; Christmas Past immerges glowing, wearing a crown of candles; Christmas Present strides the stage at 8_ feet tall and two children appear from underneath his costume; and Christmas Yet-to-Come materializes from a cloud of glowing red smoke, shrouded from head-to-toe in torn, ragged gray and black with skeleton hands.
All of which underscores the need for rehearsal garments – 30 of them in all. In order to move correctly during performances, actors must rehearse in hoops, top hats, elevator shoes, with canes, on stilts, and wearing chains and a hood. “You get into your costume and you make it work. You have to say ‘these are my clothes’ and learn to move naturally in them,” says Foster. Still, there was a crew of three dedicated to helping with costume changes. “Every professional theatre has a dressing crew.”
How important are these costumes to Graceland? “We are an educational institution and need to offer our students a variety of theatre experiences,” say Foster, and now the Graceland costume inventory boasts a wealth of mid-19th century costumes. “This means we are well positioned to do plays like Les Miserables, Little Women, The King & I, The Heiress and others,” beams Professor Foster.
Humbug, you say? Try convincing Scrooge.
(Doug Jones is a Lamoni resident and theatre enthusiast. He appeared in “A Christmas Carol” in dual roles. He is also the founder and heart and soul of “Civil War Days,” a period-authentic reenactment event which takes place in Lamoni each Labor Day weekend. Go to
www.civilwardays.org for more information.)